Pattern Play

Taking my new skills from the jacket class, I’ve started mocking up my new projects. Now before you think I’m a complete overachiever, I did not in fact clear my sewing to do list. There is still one dress in the final stages of fitting and my husband added two pairs of pants for mending (broken zippers). Did I mention I hate mending? Not just any pants, one is a pair of jeans, ugh… And he sadly pointed out that he really like those jeans when he saw me making new muslins. I felt so guilty I went out and bought the two zippers today while Akylis and I were out for our daily walk. And I used some of nap time to start seam ripping the zippers. I also used the rest of naptime to make pattern alterations on another dress!

All my patterns are starting to look like Frankenstein has been here. Here’s Simplicity 1886:

Being a custom fit or select a cup size type pattern I made the first muslin with no bust adjustment. Alas the bust apex was too high. Here’s a closer look at my first full bust adjustment!

This pattern is actually two sizes smaller than what I have been using. Cynthia’s method works from the top down. First you pick a size that measures closest to your shoulder measurements, which could take a little work to find or learn through trial and error. Then you cut the pattern straight to that size rather than the multi-size pattern trick of using different size lines. She’s a firm believer that once you get the “hanger” (shoulder area) correct, swinging in and out for you curves is a lot easier whereas cutting to a bust and then trying to reshape the shoulders can be quite challenging.  It has something to do with how most patterns are graded evenly so shoulders are increased along with all other measurements. Being a pear-shaped person, cutting to my B-W-H tends to make the shoulders way too big, the back too wide, and the armholes saggy. Also cutting the multi-size way, while easier, can distort style lines on more complicated silhouettes. So how did the 2nd muslin come out?

No idea why I’m holding my hand like that. I suck at taking my own picture. Anyway, I like how this lays so nice and flat around the shoulders and armholes. No pulling! The lumpy section at CF is where the neckline split isn’t pinned down.

See my cute little man? He’s always wanting to jump in and help! Anyway, see how it catches on my bum? I can’t take anymore out or it will be impossible to get into and out of. Ideas? I am wondering if its the drape of the fabric at this point.  Taking the adjustments back to the tissue, I’ve now cut out all the collar pieces in this pretty floral print. So muslin 2, part B will be making sure all those pieces fit the new neckline size correctly. I think this top is pretty successful, but I don’t know if I’ll wear it out of the house. Thoughts? Maybe capris in black?

As for today’s pattern, here’s New Look 6557.

Over the weekend, I found this really pretty rayon blend at a fabric shop in Flamengo (here in Rio) that was screaming to be a sundress. Searching my stash I came across this one. I made it several years ago out of a cotton print, pre-pregnancy with the multi-size trick. It took some resizing and then the adjustments to get this to a straight 18 before making my first full bust adjustment on a wrap/halter top. Fun and games! Here’s the fabric!

My son woke up before I could begin cutting out the muslin, but that’s fine. I got a lot accomplished so far this week!