From Wadder to Wonder

As I mentioned in my last post, I pulled out New Look 6557 to make view A from that lovely Brazilian fabric I picked up. However, upon reading the various reviews on, I realized that my fabric wouldn’t work. Why? Because it is a loose weave light weight rayon-cotton blend. One reviewer in particular mentioned that even with a stronger and slightly heavier fabric than mine, she would have liked boning to hold up the back and maybe some interfacing for the ladies. Thinking on those comments, I began to research how to go about putting in all that support in a lightweight fabric. I concluded that it wouldn’t work. The fabric I stitched up in a sample stressed very easily at the seams, without any support. If I go through all the various methods of support I’d lose the beautiful drape at the bust gathers and have to cut the front waistband on grain. I decided it would be better to use the Brazilian fabric with a different style, maybe something looser like a dress with an elastic waist and “blousson” style top. I was saddened to have to set aside this pattern since the halter top in unbleached muslin had so much promise. Then I remembered this wadder. Here’s what it looks like now!

New Look 6557 view A from the pieces of McCalls 6552. I had to change a few things like the cross grain cutting of the back skirt pieces to get everything to fit on the already cut pieces. I had to insert little triangles at the bottom of the skirt because the NL skirt was wider, but its not obvious! I cut out the View D strap pieces in the print to make into double-fold binding for the neckline trim and bow. Here’s a look at the fit: Back/Side

I still didn’t take enough out for the sway back adjustment. I thought that it would be the same for any pattern, but clearly not. I didn’t put a zipper in the muslin so I didn’t catch it.  Not a huge problem, so I’m counting it as done and a lesson learned. Bust Fit:

Overall, I am happy I was able to get the coverage I wanted. I extended both sides of the center front overlap by 1/2″ as well as the slash and spread across for full bust. Oddly enough I didn’t need to lower the bust apex at all. When I added the bias trim/ties I didn’t cut away the seam allowance which added another 5/8″ so my bra is completely covered and when I bend over to wipe my son’s nose I don’t flash anyone. Success.

I am really happy with this frock. It is so comfortable! It is probably the best fitting thing I’ve stitched since I started this blog. That makes me feel proud of all I’ve learned since February.  A few tweaks and this will be my first woven TNT pattern!  Maybe next time I’ll actually line the entire thing instead of just the two bust pieces and the entire back pieces (I deleted the facing and made a lining piece instead).