Wool Jacket Muslin Part 1

For my jacket posts, I’m going to include my process along with tips from my jacket class last summer. As seen in my previous post, I am clearly not an expert. I am hoping for feedback, shared experiences, tips and tricks, and questions/comments. These are for me to learn and share, so feel free to participate! Here we go:

I left off with the bust apex confusion. Before cutting the muslin, I double checked the patterns to the magazine diagrams to make sure I marked everything. I missed a few things because this jacket is the “red line” pattern and there was a big red shaded pattern piece printed in the middle of the pattern sheet. Great thinking Burda.

cutting muslin no no

When I placed the patterns on the muslin I discovered two problems. First my “great idea” of using 118″ wide quilting muslin backfired because it was hard to layout on the cramped floor and as I moved around the layers shifted. I had to check for grain and reposition the fabric several times even after the first pattern piece was pined. This was a failed experiment. I also caught that I forgot to do my width adjustment on the front shoulder seam. That was a quick fix, and I’m glad I hadn’t done all the bust adjustments or it would have skewed them because I had to take out 3/4″ from each shoulder and redraw the shoulder slope.

marking in two steps AHere’s a trick we played with in our jacket class. The left is marked with the tracing wheel/wax paper and the right with marker, though I have no idea why the color looks so weird in this photo. Our class supply list included a pack of multi-colored Sharpies for Cynthia’s color system. Each round of fitting changes gets a different color so as we made changes, we didn’t lose our place. She also used the Sharpies to mark fit problems on the muslin. Some of us took it a step further and marked everything with the Sharpies so it was easier to see and stitch.  Now I use washable kid’s markers because I saw the bleed through marks all over the class tables and onto one woman’s bra. I don’t want to deal with that. I am wondering if the shop owner replaced the Sharpies with a different brand on the next class’ supply list.  Here’s my final front pieces ready for sewing.

front pieces

I am really glad I learned this because it makes stitching more accurate and seeing the waistline and center lines while fitting in the mirror easier. When I pack this muslin up for our Easter vacation trip to Ipatinga, the color will still be there and I can jump right in where I left off. We are visiting family in Ipatinga (mountainous region north of Rio) and it will be cold (Fall/rainy season has hit Rio too), but I know I won’t have this jacket done in two days. At least I have my new Laura jacket!