Moto Jacket Pattern Adjustments

A Sew-A-Long should really be prep-a-long first! This jacket has a lot of pieces! Here are the “final” adjustments at this point:

First, the FBA for a C Cup, which is crucial for a fitted jacket. My son is helpfully pointing to the straight line I drew across the 3 front pattern pieces to ensure the adjustments lined up.

The full bust adjustment when completed. I chose to spread through the center of the bust point rather than use the seams because that middle front piece had nice parallel seams. I kept my adjustment below the bust to 1/2″ to keep the lines equidistant and maintain that styling (I feel the need to call my old math teacher and let her know I actually use geometry terms for my hobby now!).

My usual short back waist length adjustment on the back, side back, and lining back pieces. I really like that this pattern has special lining pieces and all the hem marks for lining. (Remember the fun of Burda for this? Cut and go patterns save so much time!)

Finally the “heavy upper arm adjustment” for girls with curvy biceps. That name is courtesy of Vogue Sewing’s fitting guide. Ugh! Anyway, whatever the name, I had to add an inch, because even though the finished measurement so helpfully printed on the tissue would work, I wanted to match designer ease. I wanted to avoid the Wool Jacket ease issue and insure I could layer as needed. I am excited that this pattern included a two piece sleeve! I am hoping to learn/practice my jacket techniques and come out with an edgy fun jacket.

The fabric finish survived the cold wash with mild detergent and is in the final stages of hanging dry. I’ve had to move it around to avoid cats and child. I plan to cut the fabric and start the sewing steps later this week. To follow the designer’s sew-a-long go here.